Daily Trade News

Gourmet food in UAE is taking on Paris, New York and London


Chefs and owners pose for picture on the stage during a ceremony revealing the 2022 selection of the Michelin Guide Dubai, the first-ever edition in the United Arab Emirates, on June 21, 2022.

Giuseppe Cacace | Afp | Getty Images

DUBAI, United Arab Emirates — While the economic outlook for much of the world is predicted to be rocky over 2023, in the Gulf there’s a buoyant mood.

This is partly after the lucrative soccer frenzy in Qatar, but also because the region’s tourism sector has never had it so good.

This is especially true for the United Arab Emirates, with the country’s economy growing by more than 6% this year, according to the International Monetary Fund.

For the UAE hospitality sector there’s a lot on the table — literally, if the rising number of posh new fine dining restaurants is anything to go by. Licensed eateries in the country must be part of a hotel — with a few exceptions in the finance district of DIFC — so this is a vital business tie-in.

And as ever in this part of the world, the competition to be the most extravagant and lauded is already high — as illustrated by the competitive spirit on display in the UAE’s inaugural Michelin Guide Dubai awards a few months back.

The capital Abu Dhabi saw three of its restaurants recognized with one star — Talea by Antonio Guida, for its “Cucina di Famiglia” or family style Italian cuisine; Hakkasan, a restaurant celebrating traditional Cantonese flavors; and ultra-trendy Japanese restaurant 99 Sushi Bar — notable for creations such as whole king crab leg au gratin, with wasabi, tobiko and yuzu mayonnaise.

Down the road in Dubai — Abu Dhabi’s boisterous neighbor and unofficial rival — an impressive eleven restaurants were served Michelin stars, including upmarket Italian eatery Armani Ristorante located at the base of the city’s most famous landmark, the soaring Burj Khalifa.

Chef Giovanni Papi confirmed to CNBC that accolades this year from the likes of Michelin have been pulling in well-to-do foodies, both locals and tourists alike. “Since our latest recognitions and awards, we have seen an increase in gourmet guests,” he said.

The kitchen at Armani Ristorante is currently showcasing an ambitious truffle-themed degustation menu starting at 949 dirhams ($258) a head — or 1,559 dirhams with wine pairing. It includes intricate dishes such as Bottoni Ripieni, composed of button-shaped ravioli filled with braised lamb and artichoke, Castelmagno cheese fondue, and lamb ragout.

While there are officially no three-star Michelin restaurants yet in the UAE, November did see three Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire swing by his restaurant Pierre’s TT at the InterContinental Dubai. The French maestro is a regular visitor to Dubai and has been one of the more serious global chefs setting the gastronomic agenda in the emirate.

For a few nights only, well-heeled guests sampled creations such as pan-fried squid with black garlic, Paris mushrooms and rocket.

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