A food guide to the Thai capital

Bangkok revels in its status as a culinary mecca.

From wizened street vendors who perform alchemy with sizzling woks to whiz-kid chefs who are shaping the fine dining scene, the city lays claim to one of the world’s most multifaceted food scenes.

That’s why eating is a thread that runs through even a short stay in the Thai capital.

Bangkok’s oldest enclaves encompass visitor highlights such as the Grand Palace and the riverside temple of Wat Pho. Other draws include neighborhoods such as Chinatown and Banglamphu, both which abound with eating options.

For an old-school start to the day, visitors can fuel up with sweetened coffee, soft-boiled eggs and pillowy toast spread thick with butter and sangkaya (coconut custard made from a tropical plant called pandan) at On Luk Yun.

After perusing the royal sights, travelers can stop for lunch at Roti Mataba for pan-fried flatbread stuffed with spicy fillings.

For a more upscale midday meal, there’s Nusara, where Michelin-starred chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn pays tribute to his late grandmother with his spin on traditional Thai recipes. He said it can be challenging to please both travelers and discerning local guests, who often want different things.

“Tourists want to taste what Thai food is all about — they want to try the traditional recipes,” he said. “On the other hand, local Thai guests like to eat something that tastes familiar, but … they want something new, so it’s forcing chefs to find new ways of working with Thai ingredients and flavors.”

Snacking is a huge part of Thai eating culture. For this, there’s Nai Mong, which serves hoi thod (oyster pancake), near the Wat Mangkon train station, or Lao Tang for tender, braised goose meat in the heart of Yaowarat Road, Chinatown’s main drag.

Lines form early in the evening outside Jay Fai where the Michelin-starred owner packs in visiting foodies with dishes such as pad kee mao (drunken noodles) and khai jiew poo (crab omelet).

A more refined Michelin-garlanded alternative in the old city is 80/20, where Canadian chef Andrew Martin enhances the restaurant’s reputation for boundary-burning flair.

Highlights of his menu include the “Stormy Sea,” a dish of squid, mangosteen and chili, inspired by the chef’s fishing trips to southern Thailand, and “Isaan Market,” which focuses solely on seasonal mushrooms found in the mountainous areas of the country’s northeast region.

There’s nothing remotely buttoned up about the eating scene in the business districts of Silom and Sathorn.

Jok Prince, near the…